Between researching, bidding, finishing up our last post, an 11-month TDY (temporary duty) for language in Falls Church, spending $9k on consumables shipments, and our VERY LONG flight here; we've been waiting and preparing to move to Tirana for about two years. So far, I can honestly say that it was worth the wait. We're all very happy here.
We had no idea what to expect when we got here, other than finding out a week before our arrival that our house wasn't going to be ready. I think that was the biggest thing to get used to. After our almost year-long stint in a tiny apartment where we were literally on top of each other, we were REALLY looking forward to moving into our three-bedroom house. C'est la vie. If there's anything we've learned from being in the Foreign Service, it's that you have to learn to go with the flow; and, also, the "flow" can change from moment to moment.
Our packout from Oakwood was a horrific experience. We had a packout surveyor come to the apartment and assure us that we were nowhere near our weight limit. (The State Department will pay to ship all of your belongings up to a certain weight only.) Of course, the scale that the movers used the following day didn't agree with our packout survey; so the hubby and I had to make a lot of very hard decisions about what would stay and what would go. The boys were staying with my parents; so we were so thankful they didn't have to witness us getting rid of their basketball goal, toy boxes, wagon, legos, etc.
When it was all said and done, we got to Dulles with three hours to spare. I don't know how we managed it, but we had eight, 49.5 lb bags, six carry on bags, two kids, and two cats with us. Our flights were all on time, and thankfully the seats had in-flight entertainment for everyone! The boys slept five or six hours out of nine; so we were really thankful for that. The hubby and I were not so lucky, and we had to stay alert during our four-hour layover in Vienna. We were able to get a really nice meal (for a whopping 40 euro).
Our arrival in Tirana couldn't have been more pleasant, to be honest. We're definitely not a family who jumps in the front of the line just because we carry black passports. That said, we definitely didn't mind hopping in front when a guard saw our passports and insisted we go first. The customs officials checked our visas and sent us right through. They didn't even ask us the typical questions. It was definitely the best long-haul travel experience we ever had. The Embassy sent someone to make sure we got all of our bags (one duffel was missing but was sent on later), and our sweet sponsors were there waiting on us when we walked out of the arrivals doors.
See, post always sets you up with a sponsor so that you have some kind of resource/safety net at post. They usually buy you some groceries and some toilet paper, and they make sure you have a ride to work. They also answer the endless questions that spouses like me tend to ask. Our sponsors were/are great, and they even had freshly cooked spaghetti and pancakes in the fridge for us. It was beyond sweet.
The ride from the airport was long, hot (because the driver couldn't figure out the AC) and eye-opening. We were surprised by how poor the first part of the city was. It caught us off guard. And I heard stories about the traffic for months before we got here; but, compared to Guayaquil, it was nothing! That was a big relief, because it took me a year before I had enough courage to drive in Guayaquil.
Anyway, our apartment complex is very nice. Granted, we're REALLY looking forward to our house; but this place is lovely. We are in a two-bedroom apartment in a complex that has a pool, a playground, a cafe, a gym, and a game room. The boys have been happy, but I know they wish there were more kids here. There are several restaurants just a short walk away, and we've gone on long walks through the local neighborhoods. The local gardens and vineyards, and orchards in people's yards have been the most beautiful part of getting to know Tirana. One home can have a grape vineyard (which I hear is to make their own Albanian liquor, called Raki), fig trees, olive trees, tomato plants, pear trees, AND then a regular vegetable garden.
Apparently there was a huge construction/building boom a few years ago; but economic issues made completion impossible. That means that there are hundreds of homes and buildings around town that are only half completed. Many people might live only on one story of a three-story home, while the other floors are empty of walls and protection from the elements. I have to say that none of it takes away from the rustic beauty of this place. I mean, I realize that the first step of culture shock is to fall in love with the new place and idealize it; but I truly don't feel like that's what we're doing. I mean, the people are kind and hard-working; everyone speaks at least a little English; it's safe; it's cheap; the food is unbelievable; and we're all very happy with Tirana. I've even come to find the sound of the Mosque's call to prayer peaceful and comforting.
The only two "problems" we've had so far are the fact that everyone here smokes. See, smoke doesn't bother me at all; rather, it entices me. I smoked for most of my life and only quit about 9 months ago. So, I spend most of my days salivating. The other "problem" is trying to get waiters and cooks to understand that we don't eat meat. The other day, we went to a restaurant and looked at a menu. When we came to the third thing that the restaurant didn't have, we tried to explain our dilemma to the waiter. He brought out the chef, who agreed to make a special veggie risotto for us (without onions). It was amazing and only cost about $15 for all four of us to eat pasta and risotto and drink beer and sodas.
I think our favorite things are the stores here. The European supermarket is very good, but the local produce here is phenomenal. We're amazed that the fruits and veggies taste like they're supposed to! I've never had such good food.
In short, I'm in love with this little Mediterranean country. More to come...
